Hi there ;)
I finally pulled the trigger, can't wait to build it !
Thank you Chris for all your work and sharing it, It's awesome.
Meanwhile I'm printing plastics parts and working on the controler.
I plan to build something similar to the smoothiebrainz CNC controller I made a few years ago:
But the big plan is to connect almost everything with a single top PCB. Pins will be soldered on the bottom and screwed in the driver's connectors.
I can either put an arduino footprint or mount a mega2650 directly on the pcb. Not yet decided but I have everything in stock so...
Early WIP:
How is the heat generation on the "recommended" enclosure ? I might add fan(s) if I go compact.
Hi.... totally dismantled the CNCCS prototype. Many of the parts are the same as used on the current builds, so I decided to do a new build from scratch so that I could utilize these parts. On this build I am going to go with aluminum on the plate material. My goal is to do this without any special machining gear. IE pretty much using a drill press. Before I get started I wanted to show you my layout since you will see much of it in the background of this build.
turnkey pcb assembly
@Max Favre I'm so glad that your thinking of using Trinamics. I was also thinking the same when I first saw your design. Do you follow Marco Reps on youtube? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzO9skEYqwY I wonder if limit switches are necessary with the trinamics current sense back shown in his video here.
Do you think an HDMI cable could work? OR DVI? I have been reading that in premium HDMI cables that the strands are paired and sub wrapped by AL as pairs then externally wrapped by braided steel or AL. Furthermore premiums can have 26 or 28 AWG which might be able to handle the current. 2 amps roughly at 26 awg. https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm I haven't dived into the typical current draw for this arm design using the motors from the stepper online kit, so take that with a grain of salt.
Also I am a big fan of raspberry pi. Any interest in model 3b+?
Max, This is a very intensive piece of work. Thank you for contributing back, I would love to try this board out when I start my build/s. Are you planning to continue to develop this? ;and what ECAD / CAD platform do you work with?
Looks like T-1000. Very well. Regards from Chile.
Wow. That looks incredible. Very clean and well built.
Are there any available for purchase? I'm happy to do all the soldering if need be :)
The final part is here:
All soldered
With the 3d printed housing, cables enter from behind
In the meanwhile I discovered that some VGA cables simplified: ground pins are shared. I need to find 3 fully wired.
Here are the source files for the PCBs projects:
Controller shield:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BVWQ9XtNRVI-LLkeI67GsTA8-qUJy9d6?usp=sharing
! Require reflow oven SMD soldering and some arduino knowledge to flash the bootloader
BOM and 7th axis version coming soon
Robot interface:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DC262n13lVaJyhVmGSyD9pbmnmeG-PZu?usp=sharing
SMD soldering are optional status leds, doable by hand.
Use VGA connectors and wago 804-103 & 804-104
3d printed housing coming soon.
I ordered 5 pieces of each, used 1 and will spare 1 "in case of" so 3 sets are available. I don't intend to make any money of them, they're just better being used than taking dust in a drawer. I gladly do the SMD and flashing magic, the other components are on your side.
Meanwhile you can order the boards yourself by uploading the zip on the gerber folder on JLCPCB or any other pcb maker.
Mechanical assembly is almost done, wiring is on the way ;)
Steppers and drivers are here !
Everything fits nicely on the controller. I will wire the smaller driver (planned to use 6x 542 at the beginning).
The drivers are smaller than expected, some models have a bigger heatsink. The board could have been a bit smaller but at least they won't heat.
Sorry for the spam ;)
This one is almost finished. I tested the digital ouputs trough the AR2 software, everything works fine.
YAY ! It talks
I had to mess with the USB to UART driver (U2 thing on the board ;) ) but it works. AR2 2.0 sketch is loaded.
Now I can solder the remaining leds and connectors. Still no news for the steppers :|
Early design of the interface board for the robot's side
135x80mm, easy to solder THT components
can I know how much will it be cost for this complete set?
The stepper aren't here but I did what was possible without them. It went pretty well, great job Chris ! Those aluminium parts are really nice.
2 remarks:
- J5 HOUSING: holes for the 3mm rods were drilled at 2.7-2.8mm, I re drilled them to 3mm.
- J6 HOUSING SINGLE PIECE: None of the M3 were threaded but it wasn't a big issue ;)
Meanwhile some progress on the controller: put the cnc to work:
New PCBs should be here monday ;)
Now I'm just hoping OMC can get the missing stepper in stock and post my order before chinese new year holidays :|
Parts are here ! ;)
Fail ! :) I made a mistake on the ISP port: switched arduino pins with atmega pin number :-[
I will try to correct this plus a few minor things and reorder a new batch before chinese new year
First time I solder atmega2650, it's a pain: 100 pins on a 14x14mm chip..
Boards and stencil are here, footprints looks good.
Next step: smt soldering and test of the arduino
Wow. I love the idea. So to confirm this will interface the motor drivers to the power supply & arduino.
I like the idea of using a micro usb. That is fantastic. At some point you should upgrade to USB C :)
Also, what are you thoughts on having space for Joint 7 (horizontal travel pack)
Beginning "real world" things
PCB are on the mail.
I'm almost done:
- added spare digitale and analog pins to RJ45 connectors
- added endstop status leds
- corrected drivers wiring
- added SPI port
- switched to micro USB
- labelled everything and a bit of cleaning