Hi Skip, thanks for posting this. I learned a lot just by looking at your build and it was a pleasure to see your GrabCAD designs!

Got it, Thank you @goto_2004@Chris Annin

Very creative and cool. its great that you are working on something that is more accessible to people who don't have access to the imperial system. Keep us updated

Hey thanks for this, I was having the same issue and setting all the values to 0 fixed it. However, when i put in those same values again the Snap and Find and Snap image functions stopped working again. Did this happen to you?

Check the terminal block and make sure you are getting approximately 3.3v and 5v on the correct sides

Hi Paul, cool robot arm. I think adding more accurate positioning on the AR4 would be a cool project. I use my AR4, and its pretty reliable and does not lose its zero with small objects, and with a small mill tool, it should be fine. For objects around 4 lb and up, I have experienced some repeatability issues but am working on a fix. Here a short video my robot with an upgrade in J3 https://youtu.be/ZqomtLiMf7E?si=vS-wmmmrEEopgcG4

Hi Johann It depends on the position of the endifector and the object. J5 creates a bottleneck at some positions, but this can be overcome in some situations. When the arm is fully extended, the maximum payload is often limited by the joint farthest from the base (in this case, J5) due to leverage effects. If the arm is positioned with the end effector facing downwards, or if it is curled, the load is more evenly distributed, with a significant portion supported by J3, where the upgrade is beneficial. However, to achieve a consistent lifting capacity in all positions, you will need to upgrade J5 from a nema 17 to a nema 23 and make a new motor bracket, and if J4 rotation is important while holding a heavy object, you will need to upgrade that motor too

The original J3 holding torque is 0.39 Nm, the upgrade brings it up to 1.02Nm. An increase of 0.63 Nm or 161.54%

I bought a used Prusa Mini on eBay and it works great. Prusa printers are known for their reliability. Bambu labs has recently come out with the most advanced printers, if that's in your budget

impressive. I would like to see the full video and the 3rd POV. Thanks for sharing

Hi Max, the best thing to do is find a metal rod as close to 14mm or less, then align it with the motor shaft. You will have to hold the metal rod against the motor shaft as you hammer the motor out. I added a photo using an alen key as an example, but it's better to use any scrap metal like a bike seat rod or a extension bar you don't mind breaking.

Try not to drill through; instead, try hammering it out with a 14-mm rod through the spindle. You can use a smaller rod, but it will take more time to hammer it out

I got it out. Daily movement engraved the set screw and offset it in the motor shaft. The only way to remove this jam was to take a 14mm rod and hammer it out.

Update: I got it moving by hammering it out with a metal rod. I applied WD-40 to the housing and will come back tomorrow

I need to hang the robot upside down as well and will use replace the j3 motor with the j2 motor. I will make a new mounting bracket similar to this to fit the j2 motor: Chris has informed me I would need to modify the pulley for the larger motor shaft. How is your robot doing?

I am working on automating repetitive commerical kitchen tasks. A cool project idea would be to design a gripper for holding kitchen utensils, for example: a soup ladle. Have the robot surve you soup from the pot into your bowl. That would also be an interesting cooking date idea to do with someone

You can remove the liquid electrical tape with a soldering iron or a razor. The Ethernet connectors can be removed by applying pressure and forcing them out. It won't damage them