J6 Switch not made
Something in my dimensions is off a tad. Can someone post a photo of what it's supposed to look like when the switch has been made.
It looks like the AR3 motor extends too far. I can make along actuator tab but is the switch made with the slope or the tip? Is the tip really just the mechanical stop?
It is not a mechanical stop - it is only meant to trip the switch. The AR3 motor you have is a smaller diameter and if I recall a bit shorter. I would recommend modifying the latest J6 housing and made the bore smaller to fit the AR3 motor making sure the motor face projects out the same distance. From you image it look like you are only off by about 2mm.
Chris Annin Hi Chris, That's why I was asking for a photo of an AR4-MK4 of the switch actuated. It seems to me that the little bump will tend to hit the switch button from the side rather than actuating downward as there is very little slope on that bump.
At this point the easiest thing to do is redesign the little actuator. But maybe I'm not understanding how the switch is pressed.
I see what you are asking - yes it is an aggressive slope but it activates the switch quite easily.
Chris Annin Rats. When I redid the J6_AR3 housing the depth for the motor is the one dimension I didn't check on the AR4 housing.
So the sharp pin on the design AR4-MK4 design just runs against the limit switch button. IMHO, even if the entire piece is moved up the ramp is still too steep.
Instead I went to a more rounded surface which has a nice smooth travel. I do not know yet if it will over travel too far after being made and will then open on the wrong side.
If that happens I'll have to make the actuated section much wider. All this may not show up on the AR4 series because that motor/gear assembly has way less backlash.
Well crap! Although the switch was nicely made and even homed due to the AR3 J6 motor and mount the tab is too high and bumps into the frame holding the bearing.
After a week of screwing around trying to 3D print different versions I finally gave up and modified my original drawings for a totally different approach.
I put the switch on horizontally instead of at an angle. I change the switch mount and increased the length to have a 4mm tapped hole for a C clamp.
This now clears everything and has a nice smooth actuation. And if there is wear all it needs is a piece of paper as a shim under the green bit to bring it further out.
Like the AR4-MK5 the length of the body of the Gripper Mount is 13mm instead of the 12 on the AR3 version.
And of course a few pictures.